Some people cram their clothing into one closet. Emily Underhill spreads her wardrobe across four. Yes, every closet in her condo is filled with apparel.

As a collector who loves all forms of fashion, she needs the room to ensure she has ’fits for any vibe and occasion. Multiple spaces allow Underhill to visualize all of her pieces for outfit planning. She uses one for formal wear and one each for costume pieces, everyday favorites and casual-comfy.

“I see myself as a bit of a style chameleon,” she says. “One day, I may look like a preppy East Coast-style. Then the next day, someone who hangs out in the desert and goes to too many music festivals.”

As a child, Underhill says she always adored playing dress up. That passion for fashion only intensified when she became a private school kid forced to wear the same uniform five days a week. The days when she had freedom to pick her outfits turned into opportunities for looks with full-fledged creative expression.

Today, about 70% of the pieces she owns are vintage or secondhand. She hunts for unique clothing and accessories wherever she goes, but her favorite local spots are estate sales, The Purple Cow and Time Warp. Underhill has her own luxury showroom, Silibi Vintage, where clients can shop all of her fabulous finds by appointment. Silibi Vintage’s collection has housed everything from ’80s Valentino skirt suits to glimmering Gucci watches.

“It’s really difficult for me to buy new pieces paying full retail off the rack,” Underhill, 28, says. “Unless it’s the essentials that need replacing a lot, like socks, tank tops, or if it’s a piece from a designer or artist that is really something special.”

One of those recent special purchases was a pink sweatshirt adorned with sequin gingerbread houses from Baton Rouge brand Queen of Sparkles.

Underhill also bought a new pair of Louboutins while living in New York and working on her bachelor’s degree at the Fashion Institute of Technology. But the nude pumps hang on her wall like an art piece and have never been worn. That’s because they were signed by Christian Louboutin himself. It’s the only reason she’d justify marking up the ruby soles.

“My roommates and I, at the time, all went to Bergdorf,” she remembers. “We all ended up getting the cheapest new pair of Louboutins that we could get because, obviously, the man’s not going to sign a dirty shoe. He autographed (them there) for us, and I got to sit down and talk with him.”

Of course, Underhill has a plethora of accessories she does wear. Headbands, hair clips, scrunchies and statement jewelry are go-tos. A fresh red manicure complements almost any outfit. She polishes her nails herself.

Fashion has spilled over into Underhill’s professional life, too. She has worked as an international shopping guide at cruises’ port stops and even had her own line, Tidal Clothing, while she was a student at St. Joseph’s Academy. These days, she keeps up with Silibi Vintage, works part-time doing custom suit fittings at Pearce Bespoke and dabbles in styling for music videos and TV shows. She’s even been in front of the camera herself for some acting roles.

Underhill’s aesthetic is hard to pinpoint. Call it eclectic and versatile. It’s a culmination of thrifty finds, vintage gems and intentional investments. Each piece, no matter the price or designer, holds a special place in her heart and closets.

Browse her wardrobe and find a custom Pearce Bespoke navy, pinstripe suit—or a “Free Boosie” T-shirt. Her most cherished pieces are her staple flair leggings from Walmart and her ultimate vintage score, a 1994 pink tweed, four-piece suit by Chanel.

Talk about a woman who can do both. Find her on Instagram at @emilynunderhill.

This article was originally published in the August 2024 issue of 225 Magazine.