From one boot to another, our March cover story tracks the tastes of Sicily in Baton Rouge
A century ago, a tourist strolling down New Orleans’ Decatur Street in search of a beignet might find herself receiving directions not for the French Quarter, but for “Little Palermo,” a nickname nodding to the city’s proliferation of Sicilian immigrants during those decades. These days, descendants of Louisiana’s Italian-American population can be found all over the state, where family traditions continue to flourish—though perhaps nowhere more strongly than in the realm of cuisine.
In our three-part March cover story, we track those culinary traditions to three local food spots keen on maintaining the heart of their homeland. For Agrigento-born Gino Marino—owner of the family-operated Gino’s Restaurant—it all began with his mother, Grace “Mama” Marino, whose continued impact can be seen today in the name of the Baton Rouge’s Epicurean Society’s lifetime achievement award. For Pam and Grant Cannatella, it lives on in Government Street’s Cannatella Grocery, whose original location for specialty Italian fare emerged in Melville in 1923. Then there’s Christina Cox of The Blue Rose Cafe & Bakery, who runs her restaurant with the help of her “400% Sicilian” aunt, Mary Margaret “Nanny” Marino, a keeper of family memories.
Be sure to read the full cover story here, or pick up a print copy of the March issue of inRegister, available on newsstands now.